Cherry Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme — 55–70 days to harvest
Cherry tomatoes are the most productive and beginner-friendly tomato you can grow. A single healthy plant in a 30L container can produce hundreds of bite-sized fruits across the season. Indeterminate varieties keep growing and fruiting right up to the first frost — making them one of the best-value plants for any home grower.
🌟 Popular Cherry Varieties
🌱 How to Grow Cherry Tomatoes
Full sun is essential — 6–8 hours minimum. Cherry tomatoes grown in less than 5 hours of direct sun will be leggy, produce fewer fruits, and be more prone to disease. A south- or west-facing position is ideal.
Water deeply and consistently — the soil should be evenly moist but never waterlogged. Inconsistent watering (dry then soaked) causes the fruits to crack. Mulching around the base dramatically helps retain moisture and reduce watering frequency.
Tomatoes are warm-season plants. Do not plant out until nighttime temperatures stay above 10°C. Ideal growing temperature is 18–29°C. Temperatures above 35°C cause flower drop; cool nights below 13°C reduce fruit set.
Minimum 20L pot for a single plant; 30L+ is better. Use a free-draining compost mixed with perlite. Fabric pots are excellent — they prevent overwatering and air-prune roots for a healthier root system. Water daily in hot weather.
Feed with a balanced fertiliser (e.g. NPK 10-10-10) until first flowers appear, then switch to a high-potassium tomato feed (e.g. Tomorite) every 1–2 weeks. Potassium drives flowering, fruiting, and sugar development in the fruits.
Indeterminate cherry tomatoes need a sturdy support — at least 1.5m tall. Remove suckers (the shoots growing in the leaf axils) regularly to keep the plant to 1–2 main stems. This improves fruit size, airflow, and disease resistance.
🩺 Common Problems
Cause: Irregular watering — dry periods followed by heavy watering cause the fruit to expand too fast, splitting the skin.
Fix: Water consistently, mulch around the base, and harvest fruits slightly early if the problem is persistent. Some varieties are more crack-resistant than others.
Cause: Calcium deficiency at the fruit — usually caused by irregular watering preventing calcium uptake, not a lack of calcium in the soil.
Fix: Water consistently. Avoid excessive nitrogen feeding. Foliar calcium sprays can help in severe cases. Improve soil moisture retention with mulch.
Cause: Flowers falling without setting fruit — caused by temperatures above 35°C or below 13°C at night, very low humidity, or nutrient imbalance.
Fix: Move containers out of intense midday sun in heatwaves. Ensure consistent feeding. Gently shake plants daily to release pollen and improve fruit set.
Cause: A fast-spreading fungal-like disease (oomycete) that thrives in cool, wet conditions. Dark brown patches on leaves and stems, with white mould on undersides.
Fix: Remove and bin (do not compost) affected material immediately. Apply copper-based fungicide preventively in wet seasons. Improve airflow, avoid overhead watering, and keep leaves dry.
❓ Common Questions
How long do cherry tomatoes take to produce?
55–70 days from transplanting. Once fruiting begins, indeterminate plants keep producing continuously until the first frost.
Can I grow cherry tomatoes in a pot?
Yes — they are the best tomato type for containers. Use a 20–30L pot minimum, in full sun, and water consistently. Fabric pots work especially well.
Why are my tomatoes cracking?
Inconsistent watering — the fruit skin splits when the plant receives a large drink after a dry period. Water regularly and mulch the base to retain moisture.
Do I need to remove suckers?
For indeterminate varieties, yes — removing suckers (shoots in leaf axils) keeps the plant to 1–2 leaders, improving yield and airflow. Bush/determinate types don't need pruning.
